Could you please advise the itinerary that includes experiencing the sleeper train? I really love to try once.
You won’t find Doai Khon on a glossy travel brochure. No crowds, no flashing neon signs, no curated “cultural experiences.” What you’ll find instead is the sight of bamboo strips being woven by hand, a centuries-old craft that still alive in the hills of Cao Bang.
As a traveller, it’s easy to get swept up in Vietnam’s big names - Ha Long Bay, Hoi An, Sapa. But if you’re someone who craves authenticity, who seeks meaning behind every journey, then Doai Khon, Cao Bang is a quiet revelation waiting to happen. In this article, you’ll uncover the craft, culture, and quiet magic of this bamboo and rattan weaving land, from the symbolic tools of daily life to the intricate steps behind each woven piece.
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Where tradition lives on: the villages in Doai Khon
Tucked away in Vietnam’s northeast, the commune of Doai Khon holds a quiet cultural treasure. Within it lie three villages - Lan Duoi, Lan Tren, and Lung Vai - where the art of bamboo and rattan weaving is still very much alive. This isn’t a craft revived for tourists. It’s a rhythm of daily life, passed down through generations of the Nung An people.
Traditional rattan weaving from Cao Bang, Vietnam
In these villages, weaving is more than just a way to earn a living. Children grow up learning how to split bamboo with precision, how to weave fibres with patience, and how to recognise which materials are ready and which are not. Visit Doai Khon, you’ll find family members sitting together in the front of their houses, some slicing strips of bamboo, others weaving, all sharing stories as they work.
Weaving is both survival and tradition, providing families with extra income and keeping alive a craft that once flourished across the region. Even today, foreign traders and culturally curious travellers make their way to Doai Khon, drawn by the beauty and authenticity of these handmade products.
This is not a place of mass tourism or curated “local experiences.” It’s a place where tradition continues not because it’s fashionable, but because it still matters.
A craft rooted in culture
In Doai Khon, weaving isn’t just about making baskets, it’s about making a wide range of unique items. Every item crafted by the hands of the Nung An people carries a purpose.
The bamboo and rattan products here are tools of daily life, shaped by generations of use. Locals still produce items like "lo, kheng, choong,"..., each with its own specific role. A lo, for example, might be used to carry maize or firewood. A kheng for vegetables or grains. And a choong, always woven with care, plays an essential role in Nung An people's weddings, symbolising preparation, family, and generational continuity.
Eco-friendly bamboo products: kheng, lo
These pieces reflect the community’s deep connection with nature. The materials are harvested locally, often from bamboo trees that are over three years old, chosen for their strength and flexibility. And even the timing of when bamboo is cut matters. Locals say it should only be harvested at the end of the lunar month, when the plant contains less water - making it easier to dry, and less likely to attract insects.
From forest to finished form
To the untrained eye, a woven basket might seem simple. But in Doai Khon, crafting just one piece is a careful, multi-step process that can span several days.
Artisans begin by selecting the right bamboo, typically tall, straight, and at least three years old. The bamboo is harvested not just when convenient but at specific times of the lunar cycle. Cut it too early, and the bamboo holds too much moisture, making it harder to work with and more likely to rot or attract pests.
A handcrafted bamboo basket by Nung people in Cao Bang
Once harvested, the bamboo is brought home and split into thin, even strips, known as "nan". This is one of the most skilled stages of the process. The strips must be smooth, flexible, and uniform so they can be woven tightly without gaps. If the bamboo is too dry or too brittle, it will snap. If it’s too thick, it won’t bend properly.
After splitting, the strips are softened and dried, often by hanging them above a kitchen fire or under the sun. The smoke also helps to protect them from insects. Only then can the actual weaving begin.
Lightweight, durable, and naturally elegant
Depending on the type of item being made, the weaving technique changes. A lo meant for carrying heavy loads like soil or large roots needs a dense, tight weave, while one for fruit can be more open. Each item takes shape slowly, strip by strip, often requiring two full days from raw bamboo to finished product.
For the Nung An artisans, weaving is more than skill, it’s a form of quiet artistry. Each movement, each decision, is grounded in experience passed down through generations.
Bamboo baskets for use and trade
A tradition tested by time
There was a time when bamboo and rattan weaving in Doai Khon was a flourishing. Between 1990 and 1998, villages like Lan Tren, Lan Duoi, and Lung Vai were at their peak. Handwoven products from this commune made their way across Cao Bang province and beyond, reaching markets in Lang Son, Bac Kan, and Ha Giang. During the quiet months between harvests, nearly every household took part in weaving - it was both a source of income and a point of pride.
Today, while the craft still survives, it does so on a smaller scale. Most weaving now happens at the household level. A family might complete three to four pairs of lo per week, selling each pair for around 100,000 to 130,000 VND. It’s a modest supplement to their living.
A local artisan carefully arranges handmade bamboo baskets
The pressures on the craft are real. Modern alternatives like plastic baskets, metal containers, even simple fabric bags are lighter, cheaper, and easier to transport. Farming practices have evolved too. Where people once carried maize home in lo or kheng on foot, today they use motorbikes or carts, making traditional tools less necessary. As demand shrinks and younger generations look elsewhere for work, the weaving craft faces an uncertain future. Yet in homes across Doai Khon, Nung An people still carefully thread each strip together, creating simple but beautiful products.
A villager carries tools to the field in a handwoven bamboo basket
Why you should visit this Cao Bang’ craft village
If you're the kind of traveller who values authentic experiences over staged attractions, Doai Khon offers something truly rare, a way of life that still beats the rhythm of tradition. Visiting Doai Khon is about slowing down and observing. You’ll see artisans sitting there and weaving with quiet focus. You might be invited to watch, ask questions, or even try your hand at weaving bamboo strips. There’s no grand tourism infrastructure. And that’s the beauty of it. What you’ll find instead is warm hospitality, Cao Bang's scenic landscapes, and a chance to purchase authentic handwoven goods directly from the people who made them.
Planning Your Trip to Doai Khon
How to get there
Doai Khon is a rural commune in Quang Hoa district, Cao Bang province, in northern Vietnam. The most common route is:
From Hanoi: Take a bus or private transfer to Cao Bang City (approx. 6 hours). From there, you can hire a local guide, motorbike, or car to reach Doai Khon, which is about 30 km east of the city.
Local transport is limited, so it’s best to arrange travel through a local tour operator who knows the area and can facilitate visits to the weaving villages.
Places to visit near Doai Khon
Cao Bang is a land of hidden treasures — where dramatic landscapes meet deep-rooted culture. If you’re already making the journey to Doai Khon, it’s well worth exploring the surrounding area.
Phuc Sen’s blacksmithing village
Just a few kilometres from Doai Khon, Phuc Sen is famous for its traditional blacksmithing craft, practised for generations by the Nung ethnic group. Here, you can witness skilled artisans forge knives, tools, and farm equipment using age-old methods. Visiting Phuc Sen offers a rare look at Vietnamese metalwork heritage that’s still very much alive.
Phia Thap Incense-making village
Also located nearby, Phia Thap is known for its traditional incense-making. Using natural materials like bark and herbs, villagers shape, dry, and tie sticks of incense by hand, giving the whole area a sweet, earthy aroma. You can walk through the village, chat with local makers, and even try rolling incense yourself. Pairing Phia Thap with Doai Khon and Phuc Sen in a day trip will be a perfect journey.
Ban Gioc Waterfall
Often called the most beautiful waterfall in Vietnam, Ban Gioc sits dramatically on the border with China, where the Quay Son River tumbles down multiple tiers into turquoise pools. It’s about a 2-hour drive from Doai Khon, but the journey is stunning, winding through lush valleys and limestone peaks. Whether you view it from the bamboo rafts below or hike the nearby trails, Ban Gioc is a place that truly takes your breath away.
Nguom Ngao Cave
Just a short drive from Ban Gioc, this impressive limestone cave stretches over two kilometres underground. Inside, you’ll find a world of otherworldly stalactites and stalagmites, with chambers that open up like underground cathedrals. It’s a cool, mysterious contrast to the roaring waterfall above, and a perfect pairing for a day trip.
Travel tips when visiting a craft village
Autumn and spring are the most pleasant times to visit for both weather and cultural experiences. However, you still should see the weather forecast carefully before departure.
Bring cash because most villages do not accept card payments, and ATMs are limited in rural areas
Modest, comfortable clothing is appreciated, especially when visiting homes or cultural sites.
It’s always good practice to seek permission when photographing artisans or their work.
You can consider purchasing directly from the artisans, supporting their livelihoods and helping keep the tradition alive.
If possible, go with a local guide. He/she can help bridge language barriers and offer meaningful cultural context, especially when visiting weaving households.
From the bamboo forests to the skillful hands, every step of the weaving process reflects the skills of generations in Doai Khon. Each product tells a story of tradition and connection to the land. If you’re looking for an experience that’s meaningful and off-the-beaten-path, don’t forget this bamboo and rattan weaving experience.
To make the most of your visit, consider customising your trip with a local tour operator. A guided tour not only helps you navigate the village and surrounding areas but also gives you the chance to interact with skilled artisans and gain deeper insights into the bamboo and rattan weaving tradition. Travelling with IZITOUR means you'll discover hidden gems, avoid tourist traps and directly support the communities that keep these crafts alive.
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